Why a visit, not a phone quote
A heat pump price depends on things nobody can see from the driveway: the size the house actually needs, the ducts, the panel, the line set and where the outdoor unit can go.
Bluffline Memphis Heat Pumps prices every job from one visit and a written estimate.
An example house
Here is what that visit looks like, using a typical 1980s Memphis ranch as the example.
Start with what’s there
We start at the equipment, because what you have now sets the job.
- The outdoor unit: its age, size and refrigerant, from the nameplate.
- The indoor half: a furnace with a coil, an electric furnace, or an air handler, and where it sits.
- The thermostat: whether it is set up for a heat pump and has an outdoor sensor.
Questions we ask
What isn’t working? Which rooms run hot, cold or damp? How long do you plan to stay? Is anything else changing, such as an addition or new windows? The answers shape what goes on the estimate.
Measure the house
The size of the new system comes from a load calculation, not the old nameplate. For that we measure:
- Rooms, their size and ceiling height.
- Windows, their size, direction and glass.
- Insulation in the attic, and in the walls and floor where we can tell.
- Duct location: attic, crawlspace or inside.
The calculation uses Shelby County’s design conditions, 95 degrees in summer and 20 in winter. The sizing guide explains the method.
Check the ducts
A heat pump moves about 400 cubic feet of air per minute for each ton. We drill two small test ports near the air handler and take a static pressure reading with the system running.
That one number tells us whether the ducts can carry a new system’s air.
Under the house or in the attic
We look at the runs we can reach: seams, insulation, sagging flex, loose branches and the return. In a crawlspace that means going under the house. The crawl space ductwork guide explains what we’re looking for.
The panel and the circuits
At the panel we check the breakers serving the old equipment, the wire size, the main breaker and the spare spaces. That tells us whether the existing circuits fit the new equipment or whether electrical work goes on the estimate.
Outside
At the outdoor unit we look at the pad, the clearances, drainage, roof runoff above it, the disconnect and the line set.
We also note the gas meter’s position, since the new unit has to keep its distance from the regulator vent, and whether a dryer vent blows toward the coil. If the spot is under a bedroom window or in a low corner, we’ll suggest a move and price it.
On a gas furnace
If you heat with gas, we inspect the furnace’s heat exchanger, flue and blower and take a combustion reading. That decides whether dual fuel is on the table.
The written estimate
After the visit, you get a written estimate. It lists:
| Line | What it shows |
|---|---|
| Load calculation | The size the house needs, next to the old unit’s size |
| Equipment | Model numbers for both halves, SEER2 and HSPF2 |
| Rebate tier | TVA tier where it applies |
| Line set | Reuse or replace, and why |
| Duct work | Its own line, with the static reading |
| Electrical | Its own line, if needed |
| Permit | Which office, who pulls it |
| Price | The total, with each line priced |
Where two options make sense, such as a plain AC and a heat pump, or dual fuel and all-electric, both go on one estimate.
Getting ready
A little preparation makes the visit faster and the estimate more accurate:
- Clear a path to the furnace or air handler, the attic hatch or crawlspace door and the panel.
- Take photos of the nameplates on the outdoor unit and the indoor equipment.
- Gather twelve months of utility bills, which show how hard the house works in summer and winter.
- List the problems you want solved: hot rooms, humidity, noise, high bills.
After that
You decide. If you go ahead, we pull the permit and schedule install day. What happens on installation day covers the next step, and the Memphis buying guide covers the whole decision.